PARIS (AP) — Chanel’s octogenarian designer Karl Lagerfeld, who has looked increasingly frail in recent seasons, did not come out to take a bow at the house’s couture show in Paris, something the company attributed to him being tired.

It is the first time in recent memory that Lagerfeld, who has designed for the house since 1983, has not come out to receive applause at the end of one of his shows.

His studio director Virginie Viard appeared in his place, emerging from the door of a lavish Italian “villa” that was the set painstakingly created by the house to showcase its spring-summer designs.

Chanel told The Associated Press that Lagerfeld asked Viard to represent him because he “was feeling tired,” but did not provide any further details.