在「家」享用米其林泰菜 | Enjoy Michelin-rated Thai food ‘at home’

東北酸辣滷肉 |Egg and Pork in Sweet Brown Sauce
東北酸辣滷肉 | Egg and Pork in Sweet Brown Sauce

【看英文中國郵報學英文】如果你上泰國餐館必點月亮蝦餅、蝦醬空心菜,對於菜色口味用瓦城作為比較標準,並且要求菜色份量的CP值,那你其實不用考慮這「家」了。如果你想要多了解泰國菜,好奇泰國人在家吃什麼,沒時間常跑泰國,而且願意花800~1000元滿足味蕾,我會說目前台灣除了台南「莎麗家庭餐廳」之外,12月15日即將開幕的「Baan Taipei」絕對會是值得常常造訪的店。

When visiting a Thai restaurant, if you always order full-moon shrimp patties or fried greens with shrimp paste, use food from Mandalay as a comparison for its taste, or have certain standards for pricing, then perhaps this “home kitchen” isn’t for you. But if you want to better understand Thai cuisine, are curious about an ordinary Thai’s daily diet, don’t have time to run off to Thailand, and can spend between NT$800-1,000 to satisfy your cravings, then there’s a new spot in Taipei worth considering. Aside from Tainan’s Samily Home Kitchen, there’s another option, Baan Taipei, opening on Dec. 15.

「Baan Taipei」來自曼谷的「Baan」(泰文บ้าน),泰國中部人當這個字是家,它最原始的意義卻是指村落「Moo Baan」(หมู่บ้าน)。不管是家還是村落,都說明了菜色基礎來自經營者:曼谷米其林一星餐廳「Le Du」主廚Ton(ธิติฏฐ์ ‘ต้น’ ทัศนาขจร)的出身與源頭,既是外公外婆家,也是曼谷。

Baan Taipei comes from a Bangkok “Baan” (Thai: บ้าน), which is the word for ‘home’ in central Thailand, originally referring to the village Moo Baan (หมู่บ้าน). Whether it’s a home or a village, a dish depends on its maker. In this case, the chef of the Michelin one-star restaurant Le Du, Mr. Ton (ธิติฏฐ์ ‘ต้น’ ทัศนาขจร), owes his beginnings thanks both to his grandparents’ kitchen and the city of Bankok itself.

ต้น的祖父輩是從廣東移民來泰的客家人,華人移民在泰國通常做生意,「賣鞋啊之類的,什麼都賣。」ต้น說。因為父親早逝,小時候跟外公外婆住,外公很會做菜,據說招牌菜ไข่พะโล้ต้มแซ่บ(東北酸辣滷肉)就是因為每天吃ไข่พะโล้(滷蛋)吃膩了,把อีสาน的ต้มแซ่บ加進去煮而發明出來的菜,「兩樣菜加在一起,只有我們獨家哦!」ต้น說起來時笑得超開心,大概是想起小時候的回憶。我也覺得這道菜味道有夠妙,因為พะโล้的甜膩被ต้มแซ่บ的酸辣鮮爽給平衡了,變成泰國人注重的酸辣甜鹹香,但仔細吃起來又以甜潤為主,並不會失去這道菜應有的主體。

Ton’s forefathers were Hakka people who immigrated from China’s Guangdong province. Together with other ethnic Chinese immigrants, they usually dealt in business, as Ton put it, “Shoes and the like, you name it. We sold everything and anything.”Since his father’s early death, Ton had to live with his maternal grandparents, where he learned to cook from his experienced grandfather. He explained that the popular dish, Egg and Pork in Sweet Brown Sauce (ไข่พะโล้ต้มแซ่บ), was created after he grew tired of eating a stewed egg (ไข่พะโล้) every day, so boiled pork (ต้มแซ่บ) was added and voilà. “Only we came up with this combo!”, he said smiling, as if reminiscing through childhood memories. The taste is exquisite, with the sweetness of the stewed egg and the savory spicy-sour pork balancing each other out, it became a favorite for the diverse Thai palate. However, there still remains a strong sweet flavor without losing its appeal. 

嘎拋牛肉 | Thai ground beef with Holy Basil Sauce
嘎拋牛肉 | Thai ground beef with Holy Basil Sauce

在家做菜對泰國人來說不足為奇,蒜頭就該從皮開始手剝,醬料就該從頭開始搗,青菜樹葉就該是家門口現摘;在出產椰子的南部府縣,甚至會連椰漿都是鮮搾,而หมูแดดเดียว就該是手切肉條醃漬再鋪在竹篩上先給太陽曬一曬。這些都是泰國生活日常。

For Thai people, there’s nothing surprising about their food: garlic is hand-peeled, sauce is stirred, and vegetables are plucked from their front door. Even the coconut milk from southern Thailand is freshly extracted, and the sun-dried pork (หมูแดดเดียว) is first hand-cut, salted, then laid out on bamboo rugs under the sun. Just a day in the life of a Thai person.

瑪沙曼羊排 | Lamb Ribs
瑪沙曼羊排 | Lamb Ribs

然而在「家」吃飯,一眼望去平凡無奇的菜單裡,卻藏著很不平凡的功夫與味道。一般人家裡不會連蝦醬辣椒膏臭魚醬都自己做,ต้น偏偏就是要自己做,再從泰國帶來台灣。

In fact, seemingly ordinary homemade Thai food hides very extraordinary skills and tastes. Most people wouldn’t make their own shrimp sauce, but Mr. Ton makes his own on the spot, then brings it to Taiwan.

脆炸豬肉條 | fried pork strips
脆炸豬肉條 | fried pork strips

成就Baan在台北開店的,其實有個幕後功臣Richie,同為亞洲五十大餐廳的主廚、類似的背景、相似的經營理念與企圖心,讓他們成了好友,連台北店主廚AJ都是Richie幫忙找到的。原本ต้น對台灣的泰菜廚師不抱期待,看了AJ開的菜單後相當驚豔,反倒決定讓AJ到泰國的Baan受訓。

Baan’s initial success also hinges on Richie. As one of the top 50 chefs in Asia with a similar background and equally ambitious, he and Ton became good friends, even helping to recruit AJ. Ton originally was skeptical about finding a good chef in Taiwan who could truly cook Thai cuisine, but after one look at AJ’s menu, he was astonished, and promptly sent him to train at his Baan restaurant in Thailand. 

泰式青木瓜沙拉 | Green Papaya Salad
泰式青木瓜沙拉 | Green Papaya Salad

希望這家在曼谷得到米其林推薦的家常餐廳,在ต้น與AJ的堅持下,可以改變台灣人對泰國菜的刻板印象與品味,好好對待「吃泰菜」這件事啊!

Hopefully, this Thai home kitchen, whose Bangkok locale is Michelin-recommended, will change Taiwanese preconceptions about Thai food. Under Mr. Ton and AJ’s guidance, this is surely a possible feat! 

地址:台北市敦化南路一段233巷15號

Address: Lane 233, Section 1, Dunhua South Rd., Taipei

電話:02–2711–0528

Telephone: 02-2711-0528