日本人瘋珍珠算甚麼 義大利米其林星級廚師才是超級珍珠狂 | Japanese, Italian chefs find boba equally irresistible

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【看英文中國郵報學英文】今年夏天日本掀起了珍珠奶茶熱,日本人對珍珠(粉圓)的狂熱的程度,實在令從小喝珍珠奶茶長大的台灣人大開眼界,不但把珍珠做成握壽司,珍珠冷面,珍珠咖哩,珍珠拉麵以及令人匪夷所思的珍珠啤酒以及珍珠面膜,甚至於打造了一座珍珠奶茶樂園。

Tapioca balls, also known as boba, have taken Japan by storm this summer, with hundreds of bubble tea shops opening across the country to satisfy the new obsession. In Tokyo, investors even built a boba tea theme park – Tapioca Land. Tapioca balls, also known as boba, have taken Japan by storm this summer, with hundreds of bubble tea shops opening across the country to satisfy the new obsession. In Tokyo, investors even built a boba tea theme park – Tapioca Land.

日本人風靡珍珠的狂,讓台灣人只能無奈地自嘲,終於了解義大利人在看到披薩加了鳳梨的崩潰感受。

The Japanese love boba so much that they have added boba into traditional Japanese cuisines, such as in nigiri, curry, soba, and even in beer. It seems that Taiwan people finally understand the mixed feelings Italians feel when pineapples are added on pizza.

其實珍珠就是台灣人小從小吃到大的粉圓,相傳是清朝年間,台灣進貢給慈禧太后的壽禮,當時是使用木薯粉代替糯米粉製成小圓球狀「粉圓甜羹」,慈禧品嘗後對粉圓的Q彈口感讚不絕口,從此名聲大噪,成為台灣最具代表性的甜品。

It is said that, during the Qing dynasty, Taiwan people had these Tapioca balls sent as a tribute to Empress Dowager Cixi. People then made “sweet potage soup” with Tapioca balls replacing the traditional recipe with balls made of glutinous rice. High praise from Cixi made this Taiwan dessert shoot to fame, and boba became the representative of local dessert.

台灣珍珠奶茶不但讓日本人為之瘋迷,連來自美食帝國義大利,米其林星級餐廳甜點主廚安卓歷亞.柏諾菲尼,第一次嘗到珍珠奶茶,就愛上這Q彈小圓球的滋味,在台北晶華酒店,發揮創意將珍珠粉圓結合歐式甜點,做成令人驚艷不已的珍珠粉圓系列甜點,包括,珠奶茶可頌、提拉米蘇,披薩餃、蛋塔等,滿滿的珍珠粉圓做成各式點心,令人熟悉卻驚喜的美味,顛覆老饕的味蕾。

Not only the Japanese people, but Italian chef finds boba irresistible too. From the empire of culinary, the Regent Hotel’s Italian chef Andrea Bonaffini has fallen in love with the chewy textile of boba at the first taste.

愛上珍珠粉圓並主導「全民瘋珍珠‧粉圓嘉年華」的是晶華酒店的點心房行政主廚安卓歷亞.柏諾菲尼(Andrea Bonaffini),在國際美食界被譽為「甜點界的馬可波羅」的安卓歷亞。

Thus, he worked his creative muscle for the invention of special bubble dishes. For instance, boba can be found in Bonaffini’s croissants, in tiramisu, in the Italian folded pizza calzone and even in custard tart. These fusions of European and Taiwanese boba create a totally new food experience for epicure’s taste buds.

從小就對甜點展現狂熱,出道之後陸續任職於義大利米其林二星餐廳—Flipot以及Sadler,2005年來到亞洲,嘗到珍珠奶茶便深深愛上這美妙滋味,正如同探險家馬可波羅前來東方探險一般,將台灣珍珠奶茶巧妙變身,推出令人驚豔不已的美味甜點,更將這道地的台灣滋味在國際發揚光大。

Chef Andrea Bonaffini, the new Regent Taipei executive pastry chef, is also the main leading figure behind the Regent Bubble Tea Festival. Chef Bonaffini has worked at several Michelin-awarded restaurants such as Flipot and Sadler. He is quite literally the “Marco Polo” of desserts as he traveled from Europe to Asia in 2005, discovering different local ingredients through his journey and promoting boba to the world.

這次Discover Taiwan的主持人Julian有機會品嘗到這些珍珠粉圓甜點,最令Julian讚不絕口的就是義大利著名甜品提拉米蘇的台灣變身款,充滿滿滿空氣感的珍珠輕羽提拉米蘇,有別於一般傳統提拉米蘇的濃厚口感,這款珍珠輕羽提拉米蘇,是主廚以特別的手法將馬斯卡邦起司、蛋黃、糖、鮮奶油打入氮氣製成的空氣感十足起士奶油,撒上可可粉與珍珠,清爽的提拉米蘇加上Q彈的珍珠粉圓,讓Julian直接吃完三份後,還多點幾份帶回房間裡慢慢品嘗。

Discover Taiwan’s host, Julian, was lucky to have an opportunity for tasting these tapioca ball desserts. One of his favorite snacks is the Taiwan-version of traditional Italian dessert tiramisu. “Light Bubble Milk Tea Tiramisu,” name of the snack, is made from a unique blend of Mascarpone cheese cream, coffee pudding, and bubbles. Julian definitely loves the tasty tiramisu with chewy bubbles. After he ate up three of them, he even asked more so that he could enjoy it back to the room at night.

另一款讓在場所有人都一致讚好的珍奶爆漿可頌,是兼具視覺與味覺饗宴的創新品項,以法國麵粉製成的麵糰經過發酵以及冷凍的過程後,再揉入散發著淡雅香氣的法國藍絲可奶油,於室溫25度的環境下以傳統法式手法進行延壓與烘烤,外皮金黃酥脆的完美口感,內餡夾入以鮮奶油、紅茶、糖慢火熬煮而成的奶茶餡,最後注入Q彈珍珠,品嘗時每一口都可嘗到爆漿以及融化在嘴裡的濃郁奶茶滋味。

Bubble Milk Tea Croissant is another masterpiece from Chef Bonaffini. Made from French Lescure cream and slow-cooked milk tea ganache with bubbles, the crispy croissant yet thick and moist milk-tea flavor stuffing and chewy bubbles together create multiple layers of taste for each bite.

還有一端上桌就令人震撼,更吸引全餐廳注目焦點的波霸冰鍋,其實就是台灣人在熟悉不過的剉冰升級豪華版。將珍珠、紅豆、大紅豆、芋圓、薏仁、芋頭、花生、與綠豆等配料,擺滿裝著碎冰的銅製火鍋內,原本是裝炭火的煙囪內鍋放入乾冰,上桌時乾冰雲霧繚繞,保冰效果滿分,視覺效果及氣勢更是驚艷全場的目光焦點。

Moreover, “Bubble Ice Pot” astonished the whole restaurant right away when it was served. The pot is actually a prime version of shaved ice. The pot features a traditional brass hot pot with beloved summer snack ingredients such as bubble, red beans, taro, peanuts and Thai ice tea complete with smoky dry ice visuals.

除了甜品以外,來自義大利的主廚更是發揮創意極致,做出一道令義大利同胞會更崩潰的珍珠粉圓比薩。將帕達諾、馬茲瑞拉以及格呂耶爾三款起司的麵皮,加上義大利傳統肉腸薩拉米以及珍珠粉圓,原本連主持人Julian都質疑的台義融合比薩,撒上滿滿起司粉再稍加烤過的珍珠粉圓,外層些微焦脆,咬下後卻發現仍保有珍珠粉圓Q彈滑嫩口感,搭配鹹香的撒拉米以及濃郁起司,這道珍珠粉圓比薩令主持人直呼「馬上打包我要帶回歐洲去!」

The Italian chef’s creativity has no limit. Something that other Italian comrade might feel unacceptable is the “Boba Pizza” featuring Grana Padano, mozzarella and Gruyère cheese with salami and bubbles. Even Julian doubted what this Italian-Taiwanese pizza tastes would like. The boba was baked with the entire pizza; thus, it had a crispy surface but still chewy inside. Plus a rich taste of savory salami and cheese, this pizza amazed Julian so much that he even said he would like to package it and bring it back to Europe!  ●