【看英文中國郵報學英文】以春天入菜，什麼樣的花卉會出現在餐桌上呢？蘭 ORCHID Restaurant 創意法式料理餐廳主 廚基爾達擅長烹調法式料理，在台灣一片春意盎然之中，主廚發現了各式各樣的春季料理， 激發了他的創作靈感。所謂的春意，除了花朵之外，生命力迸發的盎然綠意，成了廚師們創 作料理的靈感來源。
How can the dishes show the colors of spring on the table? Gildas Périn, head chef at Orchid Restaurant (Orchid Restaurant 蘭), who excels in creative French cuisine, also sees a different light in the designs of spring dishes in Taiwan, a land full of clean spring air. The so-called “spring air” should not only include flowers, but also the sprouts of new life, which, of course, serve as inspiration for chefs to create new dishes as well.
蘭 ORCHID Restaurant 創意法式料理餐廳除了使用花朵之外，也會用一些簡單的食材，像是 芫荽、豆苗來點綴料理。其實他發想春季菜單的過程中，較喜歡使用山茼蒿、紫蘇、酢漿草等野菜類所開的花，因為 一般觀賞用的花，如三色堇，雖然色彩繽紛漂亮，但幾乎沒什麼味道。 相較之下，許多蔬菜的苗不但能夠增添一點綠意，更能夠為料理添加更豐富的味道。
In addition to whole flowers, Orchid Restaurant also uses simple ingredients such as coriander sprouts and pea sprouts for decoration. General ornamental flowers, like the pansy, are nearly out of taste despite their colorful appearance. Compared to such, vegetable sprouts not only add some greenness, but also enhance the taste of dishes.
In the past, people mostly took edible flowers as decoration and embellishment for certain types of dishes. However, more practical usages will have to be found in order for these flowers to become a regular ingredient in all kinds of cuisine, including that of the French.
例如，小黃瓜就是一種很適合用於法式料理的食材。切片小黃 瓜可以加入冰優格增色，或是做成雪酪也能帶出潤滑口感，抑或是把鮮黃的小黃瓜花放上料 理，點綴其中。除此之外，還可以用同樣的食材做成開胃菜或甜點。
Therefore, simple and common ingredients like cucumber are easier to use for delicate French cuisine. Cucumber slices can be added to iced yogurt or can be made into sorbet with a smooth taste, as well as added with cucumber flowers for decoration. The same ingredient can be made into an appetizer or dessert.
符應節氣 品嘗美好滋味 | Obtain the Best Taste under the Suitable Solar Terms
The Japanese wagashi (dessert), with equal parts delicacy and color when experienced through the lens of French cuisine, can bring the essence of spring to the table.
Emily Wu (吳意菁) from Tokyo Confectionery School shared her experiences after returning to Taiwan and is now acting as a teacher of “Wagashi Experience” in Beitou Museum(北投文物館). She always wears an elegant wafuku in class and seems to have dozens of creative ideas when speaking of wagashi.
“In the early days, wagashi were mostly for ceremonial purposes, and were rarely made in an animal shape. Later, due to the influences of the Japanese tea ceremony, the shape and flavor of wagashi began to be inspired by the solar cycle. To prevent affecting the original flavor of tea, ingredients with strong flavors will not be selected for making wagashi,” says Emily.
In other words, wagashi are made according to seasonal crops, scenes, and flowers of different seasons. For example, “Sakura Mochi” is a kind of mochi with a cherry-like pink color and red bean paste inside. A piece of pickled sakura leaf covers the mochi, and another salted sakura blossom is decorated upon it. Holding it in both hands is just like holding spring in one’s hands. Take a small bite, and the light floral fragrance and a flavor of mixed sweetness and saltiness expound in the mouth.
日式和菓子 復刻台北春天 | Wagashi Represents Spring in Taipei
In addition to Sakura Mochi, which has a most satisfying taste, there is also a kind of wagashi called “Nerikiri.” The term “wagashi” widely refers to traditional Japanese pastries. However, nerikiri particularly refers to the ones based on navy bean paste, which are then dyed with various pigments, and encased by red bean paste or mung bean paste, and lastly shaped, sculpted, pressed, and cut with various tools.
Emily shares her expertise in making wagashi in the shape of an Azalea which she learned in Japan. Firstly, slowly press and sieve some bean paste dyed green with a powder sieve made of horse’s hair, and make the paste into green shreds like a grove, which encase the red bean paste within. Then, press and sieve some red bean paste and scatter it among the mung bean paste. Such forms the lovely Azalea in clusters in your hands, which is a common beautiful scene on the street of Taipei in spring.
However, since Azalea is the city flower of Taipei City, it should be, Emily maintains, the central focus on the plate rather than being hidden among green leaves. Thus, Emily creatively uses the pinkish bean paste to encase the red bean paste first, and slowly shapes it into the form of an Azalea with her crafty hands. Then, she draws the lines of petals and adds some tiny red dots on them. The result is a stunning representation of a blossoming and lovable Azalea.
These seasonal delicacies which are inspired by natural scenes create an exclusive flavor of Taipei, helping people to linger in these wonderful but fleeting spring days.
By Shih Yonghao (石永豪)
Translation By Joe Henley
Photos by Yang Zhiren (楊智仁), Orchid Restaurant (蘭), Shutterstock and Happinessalwaystw (日日幸福出版社《和菓子聖經》)
杜鵑花和菓子 | Azalea Wagashi Recipe
步驟 1 製作練切（和菓子外皮） | Step 1 Make Nerikiri (Wagashi Skin)
材料 | Ingredients
Navy bean paste 1,000g Mizuame 50g
Glutinous rice powder 18g
Water 15 to 25g
用具 | Method & Utensils
A steel basin
A small pot with handle (such as copper pot or deep cooking pan) A wooden ladle
Pour the glutinous rice powder into the basin, add 18g of water on the powder, and knead it. Add the water until the powder becomes a paste, which should be slightly sticky but not attaching to hands. In principle, the amount of water is equal to that of the powder, but it should be slowly added due to possibly different dryness of different brands. You should judge how it can become paste yourself.
Add the water into the small pot to 80% capacity. After the water is boiled, make the paste into separate balls, knead it to a round shape, and boil them in the water until their shape is similar to that of mochi, which will take approximately 3 minutes. After that, take them out and pour out the water in the pot.
Add a small amount of water again in the pot (which is simply for dividing the navy bean paste from the bottom to avoid possible scorching), boil the paste using a small ame, and slowly stir it with the ladle.
Then, add the small rice balls and continue to boil them until the paste becomes malleable and flexible. Add mizuame to increase the wetness of the nerikiri, and then it is complete.
Sieve the nerikiri with a strainer for more delicate particles and then separate the nerikiri into small pieces and knead them into balls. Repeating this 2 to 3 times can make the nerikiri white.
Finally, wrap the package that has been reduced to room temperature with plastic wrap, and store it in the refrigerator. When used, it should be colored according to the desired shape. For example, the Azalea in this demonstration is pink, so all you need to do is to dye it with pink food dye.
步驟 2 捏製和菓子 | Step 2 Knead the Wagashi
材料 | Ingredients
Pink nerikiri 22g
Ready-made red mung bean paste 15g
用具 | Method & Utensils
A triangle rod (or thin chopstick as an alternative) A needle
A ball-ended rod
Knead the pink nerikiri into a round shape, and press it. Put red bean paste in the center, encase it, and knead it into a ball.
Use the triangle rod to press the edges of the ball into five flat surfaces, just as the five petals of an Azalea. Since the petals of an Azalea are slightly pointed, you can make the outline of petals using your hands or implements.
Use the needle or the ball-ended rod to draw lines on the petals, and it is complete.
本文經《台北畫刊》許可轉載。 看更多精彩內容詳見台北旅遊網（www.travel.Taipei/zh-tw/）。 | This article is reproduced under the permission of TAIPEI. Original content can be found at the website of Taipei Travel Net (www.travel.Taipei/en).