盎然花草 | Exotic food in Taipei

Edible plants can decorate the delicacies to provide rich flavor for eyes and tongues. (photo _ Orchid Restaurant)
Edible plants can decorate the delicacies to provide rich flavor for eyes and tongues. (photo _ Orchid Restaurant)

【看英文中國郵報學英文】以春天入菜,什麼樣的花卉會出現在餐桌上呢?蘭 ORCHID Restaurant 創意法式料理餐廳主 廚基爾達擅長烹調法式料理,在台灣一片春意盎然之中,主廚發現了各式各樣的春季料理, 激發了他的創作靈感。所謂的春意,除了花朵之外,生命力迸發的盎然綠意,成了廚師們創 作料理的靈感來源。

How can the dishes show the colors of spring on the table? Gildas Périn, head chef at Orchid Restaurant (Orchid Restaurant ), who excels in creative French cuisine, also sees a different light in the designs of spring dishes in Taiwan, a land full of clean spring air. The so-called spring air should not only include flowers, but also the sprouts of new life, which, of course, serve as inspiration for chefs to create new dishes as well. 

▲對廚師來說,新芽及花朵都象徵春意盎然的新滋味。(圖/蘭 ORCHID Restaurant 提供)|To chefs, new sprouts and flowers are the symbols of new flavors alight on the clean spring air. (photo _ Orchid Restaurant)
▲對廚師來說,新芽及花朵都象徵春意盎然的新滋味。|To chefs, new sprouts and flowers are the symbols of new flavors alight on the clean spring air. (Orchid Restaurant)

蘭 ORCHID Restaurant 創意法式料理餐廳除了使用花朵之外,也會用一些簡單的食材,像是 芫荽、豆苗來點綴料理。其實他發想春季菜單的過程中,較喜歡使用山茼蒿、紫蘇、酢漿草等野菜類所開的花,因為 一般觀賞用的花,如三色堇,雖然色彩繽紛漂亮,但幾乎沒什麼味道。 相較之下,許多蔬菜的苗不但能夠增添一點綠意,更能夠為料理添加更豐富的味道。

In addition to whole flowers, Orchid Restaurant also uses simple ingredients such as coriander sprouts and pea sprouts for decoration. General ornamental flowers, like the pansy, are nearly out of taste despite their colorful appearance. Compared to such, vegetable sprouts not only add some greenness, but also enhance the taste of dishes. 

▲對廚師來說,新芽及花朵都象徵春意盎然的新滋味。(圖/蘭 ORCHID Restaurant 提供)| Edible plants can decorate the delicacies to provide rich flavor for eyes and tongues. (photo _ Orchid Restaurant)
▲對廚師來說,新芽及花朵都象徵春意盎然的新滋味。| Edible plants can decorate the delicacies to provide rich flavor for eyes and tongues. (Orchid Restaurant)

過去大家多把食用花當成裝飾、點綴料理之用,但當花成為菜餚的一部分,就必須要有其作用,當然法式料理也不例外。

In the past, people mostly took edible flowers as decoration and embellishment for certain types of dishes. However, more practical usages will have to be found in order for these flowers to become a regular ingredient in all kinds of cuisine, including that of the French. 

▲美食用花草加以點綴,以視覺豐富味覺感受。(圖/蘭ORCHID Restaurant提供)|Edible plants can decorate the delicacies to provide rich flavor for eyes and tongues. (photo _ Orchid Restaurant)
▲美食用花草加以點綴,以視覺豐富味覺感受。|Edible plants can decorate the delicacies to provide rich flavor for eyes and tongues. (Orchid Restaurant)

例如,小黃瓜就是一種很適合用於法式料理的食材。切片小黃 瓜可以加入冰優格增色,或是做成雪酪也能帶出潤滑口感,抑或是把鮮黃的小黃瓜花放上料 理,點綴其中。除此之外,還可以用同樣的食材做成開胃菜或甜點。

Therefore, simple and common ingredients like cucumber are easier to use for delicate French cuisine. Cucumber slices can be added to iced yogurt or can be made into sorbet with a smooth taste, as well as added with cucumber flowers for decoration. The same ingredient can be made into an appetizer or dessert. 

▲美食用花草加以點綴,以視覺豐富味覺感受。(圖/蘭ORCHID Restaurant提供)|Edible plants can decorate the delicacies to provide rich flavor for eyes and tongues. (photo _ Orchid Restaurant)
▲美食用花草加以點綴,以視覺豐富味覺感受。|Edible plants can decorate the delicacies to provide rich flavor for eyes and tongues. (photo _ Orchid Restaurant)

符應節氣 品嘗美好滋味 | Obtain the Best Taste under the Suitable Solar Terms  

另外,和法式料理同樣細緻、注重色彩視覺的日式和菓子,也能為春天的餐桌增色不少。 

The Japanese wagashi (dessert), with equal parts delicacy and color when experienced through the lens of French cuisine, can bring the essence of spring to the table. 

曾遠赴日本東京製菓學校取經的吳蕙菁,回國後分享所學,目前是北投文物館「和菓子體驗」課程的老師。她上課時,總是身著樣式典雅的和服,談到和菓子,總有著說不完的創意發想。 

Emily Wu (吳意菁) from Tokyo Confectionery School shared her experiences after returning to Taiwan and is now acting as a teacher of Wagashi Experience in Beitou Museum(北投文物館). She always wears an elegant wafuku in class and seems to have dozens of creative ideas when speaking of wagashi. 

吳蕙菁說:「早期和菓子多用來祭神,較少以動物為造形,後來受到茶道文化的影響,和菓子的造形或風味,都以體現節氣為主要發想。為了不影響到品茶原有的風味,因此和菓子不能選用味道太強烈的食材。」 

In the early days, wagashi were mostly for ceremonial purposes, and were rarely made in an animal shape. Later, due to the influences of the Japanese tea ceremony, the shape and flavor of wagashi began to be inspired by the solar cycle. To prevent affecting the original flavor of tea, ingredients with strong flavors will not be selected for making wagashi, says Emily. 

也就是說,和菓子會跟隨著節氣,依照當季時令的農產品、景色、花卉來製作。像是「櫻餅」,以如櫻花般的淡粉色糯米外皮裹著紅豆泥,再覆上一片醃漬櫻葉,並點綴一小朵鹽漬櫻花,捧著櫻餅彷彿春天握在手中,輕一口,清淡花香、帶點甜口感的滋味即在口中綻放。 

In other words, wagashi are made according to seasonal crops, scenes, and flowers of different seasons. For example, Sakura Mochi is a kind of mochi with a cherry-like pink color and red bean paste inside. A piece of pickled sakura leaf covers the mochi, and another salted sakura blossom is decorated upon it. Holding it in both hands is just like holding spring in ones hands. Take a small bite, and the light floral fragrance and a flavor of mixed sweetness and saltiness expound in the mouth. 

▲以醃漬櫻葉包裹的櫻餅,象徵春天繁花盛開的美好意象。(攝影/楊智仁)|Sakura Mochi covered in pickled sakura leaf represents the beautiful scene of blossoming spring. (Photo Yang Zhiren)
▲以醃漬櫻葉包裹的櫻餅,象徵春天繁花盛開的美好意象。(攝影/楊智仁)|Sakura Mochi covered in pickled sakura leaf represents the beautiful scene of blossoming spring. (Photo Yang Zhiren)

日式和菓子 復刻台北春天  | Wagashi Represents Spring in Taipei  

除了以口感取勝的櫻餅,還有重現花卉姿態的「上生和菓子」。和菓子泛指日本傳統糕點,但上生和菓子特別是指以白豆泥為基礎,染上各種食用色素製成外皮(專業術語稱其為「練切」),再包裹紅豆泥或綠豆泥等,並使用工具刻、壓、剪等方式做出造形。 

In addition to Sakura Mochi, which has a most satisfying taste, there is also a kind of wagashi called Nerikiri.”  The term wagashi widely refers to traditional Japanese pastries. However, nerikiri particularly refers to the ones based on navy bean paste, which are then dyed with various pigments, and encased by red bean paste or mung bean paste, and lastly shaped, sculpted, pressed, and cut with various tools. 

吳蕙菁表示,她在日本學到的杜鵑花造形,先使用以馬毛編織成的粉篩,緩緩將染成綠色的豆沙壓過篩,成為縷縷綠色短細絲,包覆在紅豆沙外圍形成綠葉樹叢樣貌,再壓篩少許的紅豆沙,隨意點綴在綠豆沙間,便成為掌心中小巧可愛的杜鵑花叢,這正是台北春天街頭常見的美麗景色。 

Emily shares her expertise in making wagashi in the shape of an Azalea which she learned in Japan. Firstly, slowly press and sieve some bean paste dyed green with a powder sieve made of horse’s hair, and make the paste into green shreds like a grove, which encase the red bean paste within. Then, press and sieve some red bean paste and scatter it among the mung bean paste. Such forms the lovely Azalea in clusters in your hands, which is a common beautiful scene on the street of Taipei in spring. 

▲靈感取自大自然的和菓子,在點心盤上重現花卉綻放的美好姿態。(攝影/楊智仁)|Sakura Mochi covered in pickled sakura leaf represents the beautiful scene of blossoming spring. (Photo Yang Zhiren)
▲靈感取自大自然的和菓子,在點心盤上重現花卉綻放的美好姿態。(攝影/楊智仁)|Sakura Mochi covered in pickled sakura leaf represents the beautiful scene of blossoming spring. (Photo Yang Zhiren)

不過,她認為杜鵑花既是台北市的市花,自然不能藏於綠葉中兀自綻放點點鮮豔,而是應該成為點心盤中的主角。因此,她發揮創意,先以粉紅色豆沙團包裹著紅豆沙,只見她先用巧手漸漸揉捏成杜鵑花的造形,並刻畫出花瓣的線條,甚至在花瓣上點綴紅色小點,就像是一朵盛開的杜鵑花,模樣相當討喜。 

However, since Azalea is the city flower of Taipei City, it should be, Emily maintains, the central focus on the plate rather than being hidden among green leaves. Thus, Emily creatively uses the pinkish bean paste to encase the red bean paste first, and slowly shapes it into the form of an Azalea with her crafty hands. Then, she draws the lines of petals and adds some tiny red dots on them. The result is a stunning representation of a blossoming and lovable Azalea. 

遵循著節氣佐以春光的佳餚,從自然景致間擷取靈感,變幻出專屬於台北的滋味,讓人用餐時也能在美好春日間流連。 

These seasonal delicacies which are inspired by natural scenes create an exclusive flavor of Taipei, helping people to linger in these wonderful but fleeting spring days.  

By Shih Yonghao (石永豪)
Translation By Joe Henley
Photos by Yang Zhiren (楊智仁), Orchid Restaurant (蘭), Shutterstock and Happinessalwaystw (日日幸福出版社和菓子聖經》)

 

杜鵑花和菓子 | Azalea Wagashi Recipe  


步驟 1 製作練切和菓子外皮) | Step 1  Make Nerikiri (Wagashi Skin) 

材料 | Ingredients 

白豆沙1,000g、水飴50g、白玉粉18g、水15~25g 

Navy bean paste 1,000g Mizuame 50g 

Glutinous rice powder 18g 

Water 15 to 25g 

 

用具 | Method & Utensils 

鋼盆、有握柄的小鍋(如銅鍋、雪平鍋)、木、濾網、保鮮膜 

A steel basin 

A small pot with handle (such as copper pot or deep cooking pan) A wooden ladle 

A strainer 

Food wraps  

 

先將白玉粉倒入鋼盆,將18g的水慢慢加入粉中,並用手揉捏。水添加至白玉粉成塊,有點黏性又不沾手為止。添入的水原則上和白玉粉等量,但各廠牌粉的乾溼度不同,故要慢慢加,自行判斷到白玉粉剛好成糰為止。 

Pour the glutinous rice powder into the basin, add 18g of water on the powder, and knead it. Add the water until the powder becomes a paste, which should be slightly sticky but not attaching to hands. In principle, the amount of water is equal to that of the powder, but it should be slowly added due to possibly different dryness of different brands. You should judge how it can become paste yourself. 

在小鍋內注入約8分滿的水,等水滾後,將白玉粉糰分成小球,搓圓放入煮沸的水中煮成麻糬狀,約3分鐘後撈起備用,鍋內水倒掉。

Add the water into the small pot to 80% capacity. After the water is boiled, make the paste into separate balls, knead it to a round shape, and boil them in the water until their shape is similar to that of mochi, which will take approximately 3 minutes. After that, take them out and pour out the water in the pot. 

重新在鍋內加入少量的水(放水的作用僅是要隔離白豆沙避免黏鍋焦化,故適量即可),再放入白豆沙用文火煮,並用木杓慢慢翻攪加熱。 

Add a small amount of water again in the pot (which is simply for dividing the navy bean paste from the bottom to avoid possible scorching), boil the paste using a small ame, and slowly stir it with the ladle. 

再加入小白玉粉糰繼續拌煮,直到豆沙出筋(具延展性、彈性),再加入水飴以增加練切的溼度,練切即完成。

Then, add the small rice balls and continue to boil them until the paste becomes malleable and flexible. Add mizuame to increase the wetness of the nerikiri, and then it is complete. 

將練切用濾網過篩使粒子更細緻。練切分割成小塊再揉成糰,反覆23次可使練切變白。

Sieve the nerikiri with a strainer for more delicate particles and then separate the nerikiri into small pieces and knead them into balls. Repeating this 2 to 3 times can make the nerikiri white. 

最後用保鮮膜將已降至室溫的練切包好,可冷藏保存;使用時,依所需的和菓子造形上色,如本次示範的杜鵑花為粉紅色,染上粉紅色的食用色素即可。

Finally, wrap the package that has been reduced to room temperature with plastic wrap, and store it in the refrigerator. When used, it should be colored according to the desired shape. For example, the Azalea in this demonstration is pink, so all you need to do is to dye it with pink food dye. 

 


步驟 2 捏製和菓子 | Step 2  Knead the Wagashi  

材料 | Ingredients 

粉紅色練切22g市售紅豆沙15g 

Pink nerikiri 22g 

Ready-made red mung bean paste 15g 

 

用具 | Method & Utensils 

三角棒(可以細筷子代替)、針、丸棒 

A triangle rod (or thin chopstick as an alternative) A needle 

A ball-ended rod 

將粉紅色練切搓成圓形後壓平,在中心處放入紅豆沙餡,裹起來,搓成圓形。 

Knead the pink nerikiri into a round shape, and press it. Put red bean paste in the center, encase it, and knead it into a ball. 

將圓球狀以三角棒,從邊緣往中心壓成五等分,作為杜鵑花的5朵花瓣。由於杜鵑花的花瓣略尖,可用手或是工具輔助,做出花瓣的輪廓。

Use the triangle rod to press the edges of the ball into five flat surfaces, just as the five petals of an Azalea. Since the petals of an Azalea are slightly pointed, you can make the outline of petals using your hands or implements.

使用針或丸棒,在花瓣上刻畫線條即可。

Use the needle or the ball-ended rod to draw lines on the petals, and it is complete. 

 


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