藏身山林的童話王國,串遊排灣部落輕散策 | Exploring playful Paiwan settlements hidden in the mountains

禮納里部落 | Rinari Settlement (Courtesy of Xin Media)
禮納里部落 | Rinari Settlement (Courtesy of Xin Media)

【看英文中國郵報學英文】全台有多達746個原住民部落,每個部落都有其獨特的文化。位於屏東三地門鄉的安坡部落可謂是全台灣最「好玩」的部落,串接附近與青山比鄰的「禮納里」部落風情小鎮,再進入到藏身於深山的石板屋秘境「舊筏灣部落」,讓遊客來三地門就能一次體驗三個好玩的排灣族特色部落。

Throughout Taiwan there are more than 746 indigenous tribes, each with unique culture. In Pingdong’s Sandimen Township is the Anpo Tribe settlement, which is ideal for those pursuing brand new forms of entertainment.

It is connected to the adjacent Lina settlement and leads into the old Fawan settlement, a site famous for its stone houses. Tourists can simultaneously enjoy three distinct aspects of the Paiwan Tribe’s culture during their stay.

安坡部落也有童玩王國之稱。 | Anpo Tribe is also known as toy kingdom.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
安坡部落也有童玩王國之稱。 | Anpo Tribe is also known as toy kingdom.(Courtesy of Xin Media)

最「好玩」的部落融合傳統研發上百種童玩 | The Most Playful Settlement Has Invented Hundreds of Toys

三地門鄉山地與平原的交界地帶,地理位置離市區不算遠,安坡部落就是其中一個相當有童趣特色的排灣族部落。安坡部落吸引遊客最大的賣點就是,族人將「童玩研發」發揮在部落特色中,將早年利用原始資源所做的玩具如竹片用火烤過製成竹蜻蜓,或是竹水槍、三輪車等,就連過去耕種用的趕鳥器都變成樂器,目前部落研發出上百種童玩,成為吸引遊客來到這裡流連忘返的最大誘因。

There is a certain region in the Sandimen Township where the mountains and the plateaus meet. It is not too far away from downtown. The Anpo settlement is one of the most interesting Paiwan settlements to spend time at due to the unique traditional toys their tribespeople produce.

They utilize traditional resources to create toys such as bamboo-roasted copters, bamboo water guns, tricycles, and so on. Even devices used to shield agricultural crops from bird threats were turned into musical instruments.

The settlement has already invented hundreds of toys, which is the most crucial factor that attracts a large number of tourists.

目前部落已經研發出上百種不同的童玩。 | The settlement has already invented hundreds of toys.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
目前部落已經研發出上百種不同的童玩。 | The settlement has already invented hundreds of toys.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
族人將過去的遊戲再加以創新,像是用竹片用火烤過製成竹蜻蜓、竹水槍、三輪車等。 | The tribe people adapted and innovated new toys such as bamboo-copters, bamboo water guns and tricycles.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
族人將過去的遊戲再加以創新,像是用竹片用火烤過製成竹蜻蜓、竹水槍、三輪車等。 | The tribe people adapted and innovated new toys such as bamboo-copters, bamboo water guns and tricycles.(Courtesy of Xin Media)

除了童玩以外,另一個吸引遊客打開拍照的亮點就是「族服體驗」,部落將過去重要的族服留存下來,讓來訪的遊客體驗試穿,從肩帶、頭飾甚至到少女出嫁的掛耳飾品一應俱全,遊客在穿戴拍照的過程中也有專人講解服裝配件的背景,讓遊客瞭解排灣文化。

Tourists check in not only due to the fun traditional toys but also due to the interesting tribal clothing experiences. The people at settlement have preserved important tribal clothes that tourists can wear, such as shoulder straps, headdresses, and even earrings that young women wear when they are about to get married.

As photos of tourists dressed in these tribal clothes are getting taken, local experts will explain the historical background behind the apparels to enhance the tourists’ understanding of the Paiwan culture.

安坡部落也有「族服體驗」。| Anpo Tribe also provides “tribal clothing experiences.”(Courtesy of Xin Media)
安坡部落也有「族服體驗」。| Anpo Tribe also provides “tribal clothing experiences.”(Courtesy of Xin Media)

來到安坡部落玩,千萬不能錯過「初魯克」製作DIY。這種原本部落只有貴族或是慶典時才能品嘗到的點心,也能夠透過預約方式,讓遊客參與體驗製作過程,並品嘗只有排灣族貴族才吃得到的特色美食。

Tourists also cannot afford to miss another attraction in this settlement, which is making the traditional food “Chu-lu-ke” on their own. This used to be a delicacy only for the elites in the tribe. Tourists can reserve spots for the activity and live out the experience, where they taste what only the elites of the Paiwan tribe could eat.

安坡部落也有提供「初魯克」製作DIY。 | Anpo tribe offers traditional food “Chu-lu-ke” cooking workshops.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
安坡部落也有提供「初魯克」製作DIY。 | Anpo tribe offers traditional food “Chu-lu-ke” cooking workshops.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
「初魯克」過去是排灣族的傳統美食也是貴族點心。 | “Chu-lu-ke” was a traditional food and used to be a delicacy for the elites in the Paiwan tribes.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
「初魯克」過去是排灣族的傳統美食也是貴族點心。 | “Chu-lu-ke” was a traditional food and used to be a delicacy for the elites in the Paiwan tribes.(Courtesy of Xin Media)

小米甜甜圈風潮蔓延全台灣 距離安坡部落約20分鐘的車程,另一個彷彿歐洲小鎮般的「禮納里部落」。在這裡,家戶門前的門牌與圖騰,就像置身於歐洲小鎮一般。其實這個部落曾因為幾年前莫拉克颱風,重創附近的瑪家村、好茶村及大社村,政府將災民遷至瑪家農場安置,並由世界展望會援建永久屋,命名為「禮納里Rinari部落」,意思即是「我們一起走,大家一起往那兒去的地方」。

Millet Donuts Craze has Seized Taiwan About a 20-minute car ride from the Anpo Township is the Rinari Settlement, which emulates the styles of European towns. The address plates and decorations in front of the residential structures highly resemble those found in European towns.

This township was ravaged by Typhoon Morakot a decade ago, which heavily devastated the nearby Majia, Kucapungane, and Paridrayan Villages. The government relocated the Majia Farm and the World Vision helped build sustainable houses in the area, which became known as the Rinari Settlement, which means “let us walk together and move towards that place”.

禮納里部落 | Rinari Settlement (Courtesy of Xin Media)
禮納里部落 | Rinari Settlement (Courtesy of Xin Media)

近年來風靡全台夜市排隊熱潮的小米甜甜圈,原來最早的發源地就是在禮納里部落的「莉姆姆的歌」攤位。小米的口感和傳統甜甜圈完全不同,耐嚼又彈牙的口感更能夠品嘗到小米麵團的原味。莉姆姆的歌取自於魯凱族語Lremumuteke「空心圓」,就像是原住民傳統舞蹈會牽手連成圈,將彼此緊密在一起,來自災後重建的部落,所做的小米甜甜圈取名「莉姆姆的歌」,更具意義。

Throughout the past few years, Millet Donuts have taken all the Taiwanese night markets by storm. Millet Donuts originated from a vendor called “Limumu’s Song” from the Rinari Settlement. The texture of Millet Donuts deviates greatly from that of traditional donuts: they are more tender are chewy, which elicits the true original taste of millets.

Limumu’s Song was named after the word “Lremumuteke”, or “hollow circle” in the Rukai dialect. It represents indigenous peoples holding hands to form a circle when dancing, tightly gathered together. The naming of this vendor certainly contains some symbolic meaning, especially during times of reconstruction after the typhoon struck.

「莉姆姆的歌」是風靡全台小米甜甜圈的發源處。 |Millet Donuts originated from a vendor called “Limumu’s Song” from the Rinari Settlement.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
「莉姆姆的歌」是風靡全台小米甜甜圈的發源處。 |Millet Donuts originated from a vendor called “Limumu’s Song” from the Rinari Settlement.(Courtesy of Xin Media)

沉世遺址重現曙光 | A Rebirth of a Historical Site

沿著禮納里部落進入深山,約40分鐘車程,即可抵達秘境部落「舊筏灣」,這裡是北排灣族的發源地之一,因多重因素搬遷,遺留富有歷史意義的的石板屋聚落,近年來族人努力重建石板屋,推廣部落發展人文生態旅遊。

After a 40-minute car ride into the deeper mountains of the Rinari Settlement, one can arrive at the Old Fawan, the place of origin of the northern Paiwan tribe. Due to various reasons, the settlement was relocated numerous times.

These sites left behind historically significant stone houses. Combined with the reconstruction of more of these houses, the social and ecological culture there are effectively promoted.

禮納里部落風味餐廳的無菜單料理「頭目吃的飯」套餐。 |The restaurant in Rinari Settlement offers a combo called “Indigenous leader’s meal.”(Courtesy of Xin Media)
禮納里部落風味餐廳的無菜單料理「頭目吃的飯」套餐。 |The restaurant in Rinari Settlement offers a combo called “Indigenous leader’s meal.”(Courtesy of Xin Media)
禮納里部落風味餐廳照片裡的餐後甜點是主廚臨時起意,將棉花糖搭上紅莓、小米做的新嘗試。 | The desserts in the photo come from the chef’s idea. He attempted to put marshmallows on cranberries and millet.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
禮納里部落風味餐廳照片裡的餐後甜點是主廚臨時起意,將棉花糖搭上紅莓、小米做的新嘗試。 | The desserts in the photo come from the chef’s idea. He attempted to put marshmallows on cranberries and millet.(Courtesy of Xin Media)

舊筏灣部落目前約有13處石板屋,因部落依山勢而建,族人發現,透過先民堆疊出的步道具有良好排水功能,而後來以板岩及頁岩堆建成的新步道,雖然比較美觀,卻沒有傳承到先民的技術,不僅無法排水還容易生青苔,讓人更欽佩排灣先民的生活智慧,也讓部落族人更積極學習先人智慧,重新打造傳統古法的部落家園。

The Old Fawan settlement has about 13 sites of stone houses so far. The settlement was built along the mountain, which helped the tribesmen realize that they could stack certain materials to form pathways that could drain water away.

On the other hand, the much-later new pathways composed of sedimentary rocks were more aesthetic but did not inherit the traditional water-draining technology and, instead, generated growth of mosses. The wisdom of the traditional tribesmen prompted current tribesmen to more wholeheartedly embrace past designs to create a traditional settlement as their home.

近年來舊筏灣族人努力重建石板屋。 | Indigenous people in the Old Fawan settlement has embarked on reconstructing the stone houses.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
近年來舊筏灣族人努力重建石板屋。 | Indigenous people in the Old Fawan settlement has embarked on reconstructing the stone houses.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
須透過舊筏灣部落粉絲專頁與窗口聯繫安排工作人員,才可以進入部落。| You must contact the staff through their Facebook fan page beforehand to enter the tribe.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
須透過舊筏灣部落粉絲專頁與窗口聯繫安排工作人員,才可以進入部落。| You must contact the staff through their Facebook fan page beforehand to enter the tribe.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
舊筏灣保存一條「整建停工」的步道,並以此為戒。 | The old trail is preserved in the Old Fawan.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
舊筏灣保存一條「整建停工」的步道,並以此為戒。 | The old trail is preserved in the Old Fawan.(Courtesy of Xin Media)
舊筏灣部落可以體驗自製「羊齒蕨花環」| The Old Fawan settlement offers “fern wreath” DIY workshops. (Courtesy of Xin Media)
舊筏灣部落可以體驗自製「羊齒蕨花環」| The Old Fawan settlement offers “fern wreath” DIY workshops. (Courtesy of Xin Media)
萬壽菊與羊齒蕨交叉編織,形成天然的頭飾。 | Mexican marigold intertwined fern to form a natural headdress (Courtesy of Xin Media)
萬壽菊與羊齒蕨交叉編織,形成天然的頭飾。 | Mexican marigold intertwined fern to form a natural headdress (Courtesy of Xin Media)

原文連結:欣台灣https://solomo.xinmedia.com/taiwan/173280