跟著美國學生遊臺南古城 體驗道地古早厝超驚艷 | A County Framed in Time – Tainan

Jingzijiao Salt Fields(Courtesy of Tainan Travel)

【看英文中國郵報學英文】座落在台南縣關子嶺「火山」半山腰上,火山碧雲寺面對著波光粼粼的西海岸,雖說這座雄偉山名為「火山」,卻是鬱鬱蔥蔥。這座道教廟宇建築遠近馳名,吸引眾多信眾、觀光客前來朝聖,和其他廟宇一樣,拜訪碧雲寺出入時必須依照其特定路線,從右側廊道進入,左側離開。靜靜地穿梭其間,伴隨陣陣燃香味,大門、石柱上刻著美麗的古字,「水火同源發源地在此」,因山林之間滿佈溫泉,而得其名。

Lying on the slopes of Huoshan (火山), the Huoshan Biyun Temple faces the gleaming western coast of Taiwan, and although its name means volcano, this imposing mountain is lush green.

The Taoist temple is a well-known structure in Tainan for worshipers and tourists alike, and similar to other temples, visitors must follow a particular route when entering and exiting.

In this case, one must enter through the right corridor and exit on the left.

Zigzagging quietly through the temple’s interior perfumed with incense, beautifully aged writings have been carved into the several doorways and pillars — this here originates from both fire and water– a motif owing to the many hot springs dotting this “fire mountain”.

火山碧雲寺 | Huoshan Biyun Temple (Courtesy of Tainan Travel)

來到此拜訪碧雲寺,當然一定要去附近泡溫泉。關子嶺溫泉擁有絕佳展望,城鎮全景盡收眼底,遠方山巒輪廓緩緩延伸至平原。溫泉區分成四池,各池富含多種礦物,溫度盡然不同。遊客可以選擇浸泡兩池一般溫泉、亦或是兩池泥漿泉,或是選擇全部都泡!不論哪種,泥漿泉泡起來好舒暢,泡完後肌膚變得如嬰兒般柔嫩、光亮。

Indeed, if a visit is paid to the temple, dipping yourself into the nearby hot springs is certainly warranted. Guanziling Mud Hot Springs (關子嶺溫泉) is highly recommended for its panoramic view of the town and mountain ridges sliding down towards the plains below.

The area is divided into four separate pools of mineral-rich pools, each varying in temperature. Even more exciting, visitors may choose between the two clear-water springs or the two mud springs…or enjoy all of them! Either way, the muddy spring water is so soothing, it’ll give your skin that nice, “baby-soft” texture and glow.

關子嶺溫泉 | Guanziling Mud Hot Springs (Courtesy of Tainan Travel)
水火同源|Fire and Water Spring(Courtesy of Tainan Travel)

當然「火山」不是台南唯一奇景,位在海邊附近的平地也值得一訪。尤其接近日落時,井仔腳鹽田的美景更是美不勝收。一池池水晶般鹽山於夕陽之下,散發出閃閃光芒,有如鏡面般效果,製造出如夢似幻的絕美景緻。記得相機充飽電,你一定會想記錄下這持續30分鐘的粉色天空。如果適逢冬天,務必戴上圍巾,這裡因為靠海風很大,當你漫步於巨石之間,海浪順著風勢不斷拍打著巨石,激起浪花。

Mt. Huoshan is not the only wonder in Tainan, of course; the flatlands near the sea are worth exploring, too. The Jingzijiao Salt Fields (井仔腳鹽田) are particularly beautiful to see during sunset.

The mirror-like effect emitted by these crystalline ponds of white salt create a dreamlike landscape. Please make sure your camera is charged, onlookers will want to remember this 30-minute window of pink skies.

If it’s winter, bring a scarf because it gets windy near the coast as you walk along with the large rock barriers with the waves crashing incessantly against them.

 

井仔腳鹽田晚霞|Jingzijiao Salt Fields(Courtesy of Tainan Travel)
井仔腳鹽田晚霞|Jingzijiao Salt Fields(Courtesy of Tainan Travel)

若想品嚐道地食物,千萬別錯過「鹽鄉民宿餐廳」,這間特色餐廳提供附近鹽田導覽,深入介紹鹽業歷史,還有機會與熱心的當地人聊天。廚房內,新鮮現抓的大紅蟹、美味多汁的蛤仔配上清爽絲瓜、還有沿岸居民最愛的牡蠣絲瓜米線。如果你計畫要漫步在棋盤格似地寬闊鹽田,記得一定要先好好補充能量!

For a fresh taste of local food, visitors can’t miss Salt Country House (鹽鄉民宿餐廳), a quaint restaurant which also provides short tours through the salt flats that surround it, sharing details in the tradition of salt cultivation and a chance to get to meet warm-hearted locals.

Back at the restaurant, servings of massive freshly caught red crabs, deliciously spiced-up clams served with melon and, a coastal Taiwanese favorite, the oyster vermicelli, made with slurpy rice noodles speckled with mini oysters. If you plan on walking through this checkered maze of flats, it’d be best to eat up for energy!

鹽鄉民宿餐廳 | Salt Country House (Courtesy of Facebook / 鹽鄉民宿餐廳)
鹽鄉民宿餐廳 | Salt Country House (Courtesy of Facebook / 鹽鄉民宿餐廳)
如果你計畫要漫步在棋盤格似地寬闊鹽田,記得一定要先好好補充能量!|If you plan on walking through this checkered maze of flats, it’d be best to eat up for energy! (Courtesy of Facebook/鹽舍休閒民宿)

台南老城中心,台灣日式建築林立,你可以在此找到最棒的餐廳、旅館。在老屋主人們的努力之下,這些超過百年質樸怡人的古厝,成功地保留下其原木、石造之風采原貌。餐廳「筑馨居」是棟隱藏在巷弄間的兩層樓建築,門口兩側的木刻對聯吸引過路人的目光,也提醒客人必須要預約才能入內。主廚和老闆都非常友善、歡迎客人,且對於台灣傳統菜餚、台南老城的歷史暸若指掌。

At the heart of Tainan’s old town, known for its unique mix between colonial Japanese and Taiwanese architectural styles, you’ll find the perfect restaurant and the perfect hotel. Both housed within idyllic buildings over a century old, owners have outdone themselves preserving the original wooden and stone structures.

The restaurant, Zhuxinju  (筑馨居), is a two-story building nestled in an unassuming alleyway, its entrance framed with wooden couplets both to entice onlookers and to warn that reservations must be made before entering.

At this locale, the chefs and owner are friendly, welcoming, and exceedingly knowledgeable of both the Taiwanese cuisine the prepare and the history of this picturesque city – Tainan.

筑馨居 | Zhuxinju (Courtesy of Facebook/筑馨居)
筑馨居 | Zhuxinju (Courtesy of Facebook/筑馨居)

等待佳餚上菜期間,你可以往屋內探索整棟房子,內有各式各樣的古董收藏,大多來自日本殖民時期,像是玻璃器皿、古早味廣告、家具、收銀機等等。爬上陡直樓梯直上二樓,你可以在餐廳屋頂上自由漫步,從獨特角度感受古老街區之美。飽餐一頓後,「想起民宿」是個不錯的住宿選擇,鄉村風格建築,搖身一變成為旅人休息的巢。數個家庭曾居住在這幢老厝屋簷下,但現在經裝潢後,轉型為民宿,有著各式風格寬敞的房間。翻玩書櫃、玻璃、木板、柳條燈籠,以及撲滿花磚的浴室,這棟兩層樓旅館設計是目前台南老城區最具有特色的。

While awaiting the arrival of those fragrant dishes, diners can head on back to explore the entire house which contains numerous collections of antiques, mostly from the Japanese colonial era – glassware, vintage advertisements and furniture, a cash register, and so much more.

After climbing up the steep stairs that lead to the second floor, you’ll be able to stroll on the roof above the restaurant and enjoy the neighborhood from a usually unseen angle. After this bountiful feast, a good place to stay is Dear b&b (想起民宿), a rustic building turned B&B traveler’s nest.

These original buildings usually housed several families, but have now been converted into spacious rooms of varying styles. Playing with bookshelves, glass and wood panes, wicker lanterns and colorfully tiled bathrooms, the design of this two-building hotel is by far one of the most unique in Tainan’s historic district.

想起民宿 | Dear b&b (Courtesy of Facebook/想起民宿)
想起民宿 | Dear b&b (Courtesy of Facebook/想起民宿)

最後一個令人留下深刻印象的景點非「烏山頭水庫」莫屬。由日本工程師八田與一建造的水庫,一尊銅像遙望著未經破壞的水庫,微風拂過平靜水面,這座巨大水庫灌溉著嘉南平原。你可以搭乘觀光遊艇,聽著當地導遊娓娓道來過去的故事,船艇緩緩繞過各個被竹林、植被覆蓋的小島。

One last attraction which is guaranteed to leave a lasting impression is the Wushantou Reservoir (烏山頭水庫). Built by the Japanese engineer, Yoichi Hatta, whose statue watches over the pristine, breezy waters, this massive reservoir feeds the flat farmlands through an irrigation system flowing from its slopes.

A boat tour can be made during the day, while the local guides recount stories of times long past, the boat softly twisting and turning through the isles overgrown with bamboo and other vegetation.

烏山頭水庫|Wushantou Reservoir(Courtesy of Facebook / 烏山頭水庫)
烏山頭水庫|Wushantou Reservoir(Courtesy of Facebook / 烏山頭水庫)

台南有如時間膠囊,乘載著過去日治時期的建築、感覺,以及傳統農村生活。這裡的步調很平靜,引出這片土地的寧靜。數百年前,這座城鎮成為歐洲與台灣的交流街口,現今,咖啡館、廟宇、山林、以及平原孕育出這獨一無二的縣市。

Tainan is a capsule of time, preserving both colonial architecture and feel, as well as traditional farm life. The pace here is tranquil, the land – enticing in its calmness. Cafés, temples, mountains and flatlands form a county unique as one of the first contact points Taiwan had with Europeans centuries ago.