台灣人的必達目標篇 挑戰第一高峰 — 玉山 | A must-do journey for Taiwanese and foreigners alike

玉山主峰標高3,952公尺 (圖|朱研燕)

【看CP學英文】海拔高達3,952公尺的玉山是台灣山岳第一高峰,也是「東北亞第一高峰」,更是代表台灣的精神堡壘指標。登上玉山主峰因此成為台灣人宣示挑戰人生的必達目標,也吸引許多國外登山愛好者前來台灣最主要目的之一。 

As Taiwan’s highest mountain at an altitude of 3,952 meters,  Yushan (meaning Jade Mountain), also known as “the first peak in Northeast Asia,” represents Taiwan’s spiritual fortress. 

Among the Taiwanese, ascending to the main peak of Yushan has become a personal mission for overcoming life’s challenges, but it has also become one of the main attractions for many foreign mountaineering enthusiasts to come to Taiwan. 

玉山主峰遠眺群峰 | Overlooking the mountaintops from Yushan’s main peak. (Courtesy of Chu Yen-yen)

玉山國家公園高達3600公尺的海拔落差高度,造就了生態多樣性的景致與特色,從生態景致從亞熱帶、暖溫帶、冷溫帶一直到高山寒原等氣候與生態,登山者可明顯感受到四季更迭,變化萬千的美麗景致。

Yushan National Park owes the ecological diversity of its scenery and features to being located 3,600 meters above sea level. Traveling through subtropical, temperate warm and cold environments up towards alpine cold climate, climbers can clearly experience all four seasons with its changing natural beauty.  

攀登玉山一個月前必須上「台灣登山申請一站式服務網」登記抽山屋,並且填妥詳細行程安排以及人員資料,要注意的是排雲山莊只有116個床位,因此要爬玉山還必須看運氣 

One month before climbing Yushan, visitors must first register online for a mountain lodge at  “Hike Smart Taiwan Service,” and fill in a detailed itinerary and personnel information. Also worth noting, Paiyun Lodge (排雲山莊) is equipped with only 116 beds, so you better have luck on your side. 

通常攀登玉山的團隊前一天會夜宿南投縣信義鄉的東埔山莊,隔天一早六點出發走到排雲管理站搭接駁車,通往玉山登山口。下了接駁車,入口處豎立大石牌上面寫著「玉山登山口」,標高2,610公尺,約45分鐘一路呈之字型緩坡向上爬,右側視野十分開闊,群巒疊嶂,直到抵達1.7公里的「孟祿亭」,此為紀念美籍孟祿博士西元1952年在玉山墜崖身亡。   

Teams climbing Yushan usually stay at Dongpu Lodge (東埔山莊) in Nantou County’s Xinyi Township the day before, then set off from Paiyun Station at 6 a.m. the next day on a shuttle bus to Yushan Mountain. 

After getting off the shuttle bus at an elevation of 2,610 meters, a large stone slap indicating the entrance to a gentle slope up Yushan which lasts around 45-minute, during which, hikers can enjoy a vast panoramic view of mountains and peaks to the right. 

At 1.7 km lies the Menglu Pavilion (孟祿亭) in memory of the American, Dr. Meng Lu, who died in Yushan in 1952. 

玉山登山口塔塔加鞍部出發,一路之字緩上陡坡,映入眼簾的是雲杉原始林,是全台相當少見的林相。| Starting from the Yushan mountaineering entrance at Tataka, the zigzagging path slowly climbs up steep slopes covered in a virgin spruce forest – very rare in Taiwan. (Courtesy of Chu,yen-yen)

過了孟祿亭後緩坡攀行,海拔高度約莫3,000公尺,此區域的林相很明顯地轉換為冷溫帶針葉林,主要以鐵杉為主,混雜著紅檜木,參天巨木圍繞四周。隨後兩旁樹蔭漸少,視野逐漸開闊,幸運的話可以遠眺玉山南峰和前鋒。 

After the Menglu Pavilion, the slope reaches an altitude of about 3,000 meters. 

The forest in this area contains features typical of a cold temperate coniferous forest, mainly dominated by hemlock, mixed with red cypress, and surrounded by giant trees stretching up to the sky. 

休息過後,繼續沿著緩坡向上爬,約40分鐘會看到玉山知名地標「大峭壁」。陡峭岩坡是由歐亞板塊與菲律賓板塊擠壓而成的天然景觀,登山小徑自岩坡下穿過,走在大峭壁下更顯人類的渺小。 

Then, tree shade begins to dissipate on both sides, and one’s view gradually widens. If lucky, you can overlook beyond Yushan South Peak and other nearby mountaintops. 

After a rest, the climb continues for about 40 minutes when hikers reach Yushan’s famous landmark, “Big Cliff.” 

This steep rock slope is a natural landscape carved up by the Eurasian plate and Philippine tectonic plates, and when taking the trail through the slope, humanity’s smallness can be felt when under Yushan’s Big Cliff. 

參天巨木縈繞兩側,人顯得十分渺小。| Towering giant trees line both sides, making visitors seem minuscule. (Courtesy of Chu yen-yen)

距離排雲山莊僅剩一小時路程,接下來路線越區陡峭崎嶇,而最後一段被稱為「好漢坡」的陡峭階梯,更讓人走到幾乎快崩潰  

Only one hour away from Paiyun Lodge, the next route us rugged and crosses the area more steeply. The last step is called Haohanpo (好漢坡), or “Hero’s Slope”, because its steepness causes hikers to almost faint.  

玉山佛甲草為台灣特有種植物,盛開於六月中旬至八月底,多生長在台灣中高海拔裸露岩石或道路兩旁。其肥厚肉質,有如指甲形狀,而得其名。| The Morrisor Stonecrop is an endemic plant in Taiwan, blooming from mid-June to the end of August. It grows mostly on Taiwan’s high-altitude bare rocks or roads. Its fat and fleshy shape not unlike a fingernail is what gives it its Chinese name: 玉山佛甲草 (the Yushan Buddha Nail). (Courtesy of Chu Yen-yen)
尼泊爾籟簫又名玉山籟簫,屬於菊科,外層密佈長綿毛,花期落在七月至十月,多生長於3,200公尺以上高山群峰及岩原。| Anaphalis Nepalensis , also known as the Yushan pearly everlasting, belongs to the Asteraceae family, is densely covered with long trichomes (or “plant hair”), and blooms from July to October. This flower’s ideal habitat are peaks and rock plains over 3,200 meters high.(Courtesy of Chu, yen-yen)

位於8.5公里處的排雲山莊海拔標高3,402公尺,提供水源、廁所、廚房等設施。

Located at an altitude of 3,402 meters above sea level at 8.5 kilometers, Paiyun Lodge provides water, bathrooms, and kitchen facilities. 

排雲山莊 | Paiyun Lodge (Courtesy of Chu Yen-yen)

山莊供餐以及睡袋租賃委外經營,如果不想自己煮飯,可以事先訂購排雲山莊伙食,也可以租賃睡袋,減少背包重量,如此的服務與設備,簡直是登山界的五星級住宿。

The restaurant and the sleeping bag rental are run by separate companies. 

If you don’t want to cook your own meals, you can order meals offered by Paiyun Lodge in advance, and it’s also possible to rent sleeping bags to reduce the weight of the backpack. Such services and equipment are basically five-star accommodation in the mountaineering world. 

排雲山莊緊鄰玉山主峰、西峰登山口,受玉山群峰圍繞,朝向南方視野遼闊的溪谷,成為觀賞雲海絕佳之地。秋冬下午五點左右,正是觀賞雲海的最佳時機。 

Built adjacent to Yushan’s main peak and Xifeng peak, the lodge is surrounded by all these mountaintops, facing the valley with a wide view of the south. This position makes it an excellent place to view both the vast ocean and clouds above, which are best enjoyed at around 5 p.m. during autumn and winter. 

排雲山莊觀賞日落雲海 | Paiyun Lodge under sunset-bathed clouds. (Courtesy of Chu Yen-yen)

隔天清晨三點,是攻頂玉山的團隊準備整裝出發最佳時間,離開排雲山莊後的路段就是一路之字型的陡坡,加上高山反應讓很多登山者會有缺氧喘不過氣的狀況。

The following morning at 3:00 am is the best time for the Yushan hikers to start making their way to the mountain. 

The road after leaving Paiyun Lodge is a zigzag-shaped steep slope whose high altitude makes many climbers breathless, while the road’s loose gravel increases a sense of unease, although some sections of the road have iron chains to support it. 

摸黑走碎石坡更增不安感,部分路段有鐵鍊可以扶著,頂著不到5度的低溫,盯著頭燈照亮的路,好像永無止盡。好不容易抵達小風口,強勁的風令人站都站不穩。

With a low morning temperature of fewer than 5 degrees, the road seems endless as the shuttle’s headlights illuminate the path ahead, and it’s not easy reaching Xiaofengkou (小風口) as strong winds make standing upright difficult.

距離玉山主峰僅剩200公尺,最後之字坡陡峭山壁有如登天般困難,抓緊旁邊的鐵鍊,小心翼翼地往上攀爬,終於完成2.3公里的最終試煉。若是清晨出發,幸運的話清晨時抵達峰頂欣賞日出雲海,絕對是難以忘懷的感動時刻。 

Only 200 meters away from Yushan’s main peak and the final trek of this zigzagging slope is so steep, it seems like a stairway to the sky, so grasp onto the iron chain beside you and climb carefully until you’ve finally completed the final 2.3-kilometer trial. 

If you’re lucky and depart early enough in the morning, you will arrive at the peak in time to enjoy the sunrise bathing the sea and clouds – an undeniably unforgettable sight to behold. 

玉山主峰標高3,952公尺 | The elevation of Yushan’s main peak is 3,952 meters high. (Courtesy of Chu Yen-yen)

 

  

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